Improvement in uniting the uppers of boots and shoes



WLTHQMPSON. I UNITIITG THE UPPER-S 0F BOOTS AND No.187,1 97, I -Patented Feb .6,1877.

' WITNESSES: v Q mvimm ATTORNEYS.

N. PETERS, PHOTO-LITHOGR-APHER, WASHINGTON. D, C-

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

DAVID w. THOMPSON, OF ENGLEWOOD, ILLINOIS.

IMPROVEMENT IN UNITING THE UPPERS OF BOOTS AND SHOES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 187,197, dated February 6, 1877; application filed January 6, 1877.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, DAVID W. THOMPSON, of Englewood, in the county of Cook and State of Illinois, have invented a new and Improved Double Seam for Boots, Shoes, Gaiters, &c.; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the same.

The invention has for its object to provide an improved side and heel seam for boots, shoes, gaiters, &c., more particularly for such as are made of cloth or light leather for ladies wear.

The seam is formed mainly by means of a narrow strip which is sewed to the vertical edges of the quarters or other parts to be united,-the face sides of the leather being placed together. The edges of the quarters, as well as those of the strip, thus lie adjacent and opposite when the seam is pressed flat, and the strip presents an appearance on the outside of the boot or shoe substantially the same as an ordinary welt or stay seam, but the quarters are in no case stitched together, as common heretofore. A stay-piece of linen or other light fabric is applied on the inner side of the scam, the same being stitched through the edges of the quarters and the strip, so that all are firmly secured together.

In the accompanying drawing, forming part of this specification, Figure l is an exterior plan view of the quarters of a shoe united by the connecting-piece. Figs. 2, 3, and 4 are sectional views showing the manner of uniting the connecting-piece to the quarters and the several relative positions assumed by the edges of both parts in the successive steps of the work. Figs. 5, 6, 7 are corresponding interior plan views. Fig. 8 is a sectional view, showing the stay secured by two rows of binding-stitches.

A A indicate the quarters of a boot, shoe, or gaiter, as the case may be; B, the connecting-strip or piece by which their adjacent edges are connected; and G the linen staypiece applied on the inner side of the seam.

The side edges of the connecting-piece B are sewed to the edges of the right and left quarters, respectively, by a row of stitches, a, Fig. 2, the face sides of the leather being placed together. But, ordinarily, I propose to employ a second row of stitches, b, Fig. 3, in order to make the seam as strong as possible. The edges of the quarters are thus left free in place of being directly connected by stitches, as usual heretofore. When the seam is pressed flat, the edges of the connecting-piece B are turned in, and lie opposite and adjacent in the same manner as the edges of the quarters, Figs. 2, 3, 4.

This form of seam is applicable in some instances, without the addition of the linen staypiece 0, Figs. 4, 7, 8, when it is desired to secure all the elasticity possible, so that the shoe or gaiter will conform to the shape of the foot and allow perfect freedom of movement of the ankle, without the slightest danger of ripping the seam or tearing the leather.

In general, however, I emply the stay-piece O to complete the seam, and it is usually secured by two rows of binding-stitches c 0, one on each side of the line on which the edges of the quarters meet. These stitches pass through the stay-piece 0, through the already joined edges of the quarters and connectingpiece B, and also through the bod y of the latter,'as shown in Figs. 4 and 8. Thus all the parts are firmly secured together. The staypiece 0 may in some cases be made wide enough to receive a second row of stitches, d, Fig. 8.

In some cases the connecting-piece will be lined with cloth to impart additional strength.

The chief' advantages of this form of scam are, first, that an economy in stock is effected, or in the quantity of leather required for the quarters, since their edges do not require to be lapped or otherwise placed together in such a manner as to allow them to be sewed together, and the connecting-piece may be cut from thinner and waste pieces of leather; second, the inner side of the seam presents a flat, smooth surface, in place of the common welt, rib, or projection; third, the seam has great strength, and is very durable, as well as elastic to the required extent, and also admits of various modifications adapting it to all classes of Work.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new is 1. The improved method of uniting the quarters of a boot or shoe, consisting in secur 2. In combination with the quarters A A and connecting folded piece B, secured together by one or more edge rows of stitches upon each side, the stay=piece 0 applied on the inner side, and secured by binding-stitches a passing through the parts, as shown and described.

DAVID W. THOMPSON. Witnesses:

A. S. LAKEY,

L. FAXON. 

